Let me tell you about my journey to Somalia, a trip that was both thrilling and terrifying. Back in 2010, I was traveling overland from South Africa to Syria using public transport. During a pit stop in Ethiopia, my friend and I decided to visit Somaliland, a self-declared independent nation in northern Somalia. But deep down, I knew that visiting Somaliland wasn’t the same as visiting Somalia proper.
Somaliland is quite different from the rest of Somalia. It has its own government, flag, and currency. It’s a lot safer than southern Somalia, but it’s only recognized by a handful of countries, including Belgium. My time in Somaliland was quite an adventure, involving a Saudi property tycoon, illegal alcohol, and some questionable encounters. But I couldn’t shake the feeling that I hadn’t truly experienced Somalia.
Fast forward to my journey to country number 187 out of 197. I realized I had to visit Somalia proper to truly say I’ve been there. So, I decided to visit Mogadishu, known as one of the most dangerous cities in the world. It’s infamous for the ‘Black Hawk Down’ incident and is a hotspot for Al-Shabaab, an offshoot of Al-Qaeda. I reached out to contacts who could help me secure a visa, armed guards, and a safe place to stay. I ended up choosing Bashir, a young entrepreneur and founder of the Peace Hotel in Mogadishu, who came highly recommended.
My journey to Mogadishu was a long one, with stops in Bangkok, Istanbul, and Djibouti. Upon arrival, I was escorted to the Peace Hotel compound. Over the next few days, I toured Mogadishu and even managed to escape the city for a day at the beach. But the reality of the situation was never far away. The city was scarred by bullet holes and air strikes, and the locals had no choice but to carry on with their daily lives amidst the chaos.
Despite the danger, I saw potential in Somalia. The people were warm and hospitable, and the country was beautiful. I hope that one day, when peace returns, more people will be able to experience this untouched region.
My trip ended on a tense note when Al Shabaab attacked the airport, causing my flight to be cancelled. But eventually, I was able to leave and continue my journey. My advice to anyone considering a trip to Somalia? Stick to Somaliland until there’s some semblance of peace in Mogadishu. It’s a beautiful country, but the risks are very real.
