As I journeyed along the popular Gringo Trail in Latin America, tracing the Pan-American Highway that stretches along the Pacific coast, I encountered an unexpected challenge in Panama. Everything had been smooth sailing until then, but Panama presented a unique hurdle. You see, despite my eagerness to continue overland from Panama to Colombia, it simply wasn’t feasible due to the Darién Gap. This Gap is a dense jungle area spanning over 160 kilometers without a single road in sight. It’s a wild, undeveloped region where even the Pan-American Highway comes to an abrupt halt, making any land travel impossible. It was disappointing because I had set my mind on avoiding flights during my trip.
Apart from the lack of roads, another issue with the Darién Gap is the presence of smugglers, guerrillas, and even hungry jaguars. It’s a notorious route for drug trafficking, making it a risky and unsafe passage. While some adventurers have tried to trek across, the consensus is that it’s a dangerous endeavor not to be taken lightly.
So, as a backpacker aiming to reach Colombia from Panama, I had to explore alternative options. Flying was the most obvious choice, with direct flights available from Panama City to several Colombian cities for around $100 to $150 USD one way. However, as someone who preferred overland travel, I sought a different route that didn’t involve flying.
Fortunately, there was another way that turned out to be much more exciting than flying. Private sailing boats regularly ply the waters between Panama and Colombia, offering passage to passengers, mostly backpackers and independent travelers. These boats not only provide transportation but also a unique cruise experience, passing through the stunning and secluded San Blas Islands. The cost typically ranges from $500 to $600 USD, varying depending on the boat and captain.
Booking a sailing boat to Cartagena wasn’t as daunting as I initially thought. Blue Sailing is a key agency that helps connect travelers with boat captains. While bookings aren’t typically done online, contacting them via Whatsapp or email directly is the way to go. It’s advisable to plan ahead and secure your spot on a boat, as they can fill up quickly.
For those looking for an alternative experience, San Blas Adventures offers a slightly different route that includes a stop at the quaint village of Capurgana on Colombia’s Caribbean coast before reaching Cartagena. While this may not be the most direct route, Capurgana has its own charm worth exploring.
Personally, I opted for a private sailing boat directly to Cartagena, which is the more common choice among travelers. After a short van ride to a harbor on Panama’s north coast, I boarded the Santana, a catamaran captained by Gisbert, who would be guiding us to Colombia.
The journey through the San Blas Islands was nothing short of paradise. The first few days were spent basking in the sun, swimming, and snorkeling around the pristine islands. The marine life in the waters was abundant, with sightings of fish, sea turtles, and even a massive stingray. Disconnecting from the internet and enjoying the simple pleasures of life on board was a welcome change.
Interacting with the local Kuna people, buying fresh seafood from fishermen, and bonding with fellow passengers created a sense of camaraderie that only boat journeys can foster. Despite some seasickness during the open sea crossing, the experience of sailing through the San Blas Islands made it all worthwhile.
While the cost of the trip may seem significant for budget travelers, considering the savings from not taking a flight and factoring in daily expenses, the opportunity to embark on such a magical journey is well worth the investment. Sailing with the Santana was a memorable way to conclude my Central America adventure, and as we approached Cartagena, I felt a rush of excitement for the new chapter awaiting me in Colombia.
